Tre Città del Veneto

We spent a really magical three days in northern Italy, hosted by knowledgeable, generous, and tireless friends, along with two of their delightful daughters. One of whom actually goes to school and lives in Venice. I feel a bit like apologizing to our kids—sorry we didn't give y'all that option!

Venezia was the first of our "V" cities, since that's where we flew into. We spent the whole rest of the day just walking around this amazing, unique urban landscape—exactly what I'd been dreaming about doing since our only other visit twelve years ago. We got to see parts of the city that we hadn't made it to during our previous visit, like the original ghetto neighborhoods. At the right is the "Calle Gheto Novissimo" or gate to the "newest" ghetto. (The Venetian dialect seems to leave out a lot of letters, especially disliking double consonants for some reason.) As almost everything else in Venice (except the internet cafes that weren't even there in '96) it's of medieval-Renaissance vintage.

We did look into a couple of churches, one which displays what's supposed to be the actual body of Santa Lucia—at least, it's someone's body, as you can tell from the shriveled hands and feet that are exposed! And Santa Maria della Salute, whose feast weekend it was.

But most of the time was spent just savoring the look and feel of the place. As here:


You've heard of Venetian Red, I imagine, but don't really appreciate it until you see something like this:


We spent some time eating, too, of course, most notably a delicious and entertaining lunch at a hosteria near the Canale della Giudecca where we were introduced to the dessert drink sgroppino (suffice it to say we saw it made with a bit more flair than is indicated in this linked recipe!). And a gelato break was mandatory, in spite of the chilly breeze. Plus, lots and lots of pictures. Henry will be putting some of his prize shots on his blog eventually, and he might or might not decide to include the one he was taking here at the left.

We didn't eschew the major tourist section altogether, arriving at the Piazza San Marco just before sunset, a really beautiful time of day for photos and just gazing at the amazing architecture.



Then it was home with our host for a traditional trattoria dinner next door to their wonderfully redone Italian farmhouse in the hills above Vicenza. Which just happened to be V-city #2 the next day.

---

Vicenza's great claim to fame is as the home of Palladio, the architect even those who've forgotten most of their history of art will recognize. His buildings are all over the place here, the construction of many of them overseen by the great man himself. At the left is the very impressive, yet delicate, tower in the center of the old town, flanked on the right by the Palladian arches and columns of the building's 16th century makeover.

Columns were one of his signature elements and there are hundreds of gorgeous ones, of all kinds, on monumental structures, villas, and other buildings throughout the city. History of art in 3-D, all the time!

Another really cool Palladio site in Vicenza is his Teatro Olimpico, with its quite uncanny trompe l'oeil stage environment. Here's an amateur photo of it (they don't let you use flash or tripods inside).

We also enjoyed just strolling around the fascinating old part of the city, seeing all kinds of lovely, curious, and interesting buildings and details. One carved motto, on either side of the doors of a medieval house (specifically, that of Antonio Pigafetta, who was an important member of Magellan's round-the-world voyage, one who actually made it all the way around, as our host pointed out) made us think of Lucy's song about Tootsie. The translation is: no roses without thorns. (note: this is a pasted together picture of the two parts of the motto)


We finished up our day in Vicenza at the church on Monte Berico, a hillside providing stunning views of the city and the Alps foothills in the distance, where there was much fighting during World War I. Seems like I just can't escape learning more about that horrible period. I was particularly interested to learn that this view looks toward the Asiago Plateau, which figures prominently in my pacifist hero Vera Brittain's Testament of Youth.

---

Ready for another V? On our third and last day we hit Verona. Although not after waking to the most amazing sight:


Here is the view from our host's veranda that greeted us Monday morning! Fortunately we had vehicles (and driver) up to the task at hand and were able to make it down and into our final V. Although it was really cold and we thus had to spend even more time taking food and hot chocolate breaks (no gelato, even, today, but their hot chocolate is almost as good!). At the right you'll see the view from our luncheon stop, on the main square of the old city.

Verona's been a city a really long time, as you can tell right away by taking in such landmarks as this Roman gate, dated 1st century A.D. by a helpful sign. At left is Henry caught somewhat by surprise in the gateway; he's not used to being in photos himself.

Verona is, of course, an important Shakespearean city as well, and its enterprising residents haven't failed to take advantage, particularly with the Casa di Giulietta, complete with the balcony you see at the right. Although the little square with the balconied wall doesn't charge admission, the streets for blocks in all directions are full of shops with all kinds of R&J souvenirs.

Verona also has this emblem of the Veneto, present in all the towns of the area, according to our guide—an echo of the lion of St. Mark from the big piazza in Venezia.

In spite of the cold, dreary weather, Verona's a lovely city. Here's a shot of the hillside across the river from the old town:


We ended up at perhaps its biggest attraction, which unfortunately was closed for what looked like extensive maintenance works. However, the Roman Arena, still used during the summer for lavish opera and other big productions, was impressive enough just from the outside. Here are tourist and host approaching it across the square. Those Romans really knew how to build to last, didn't they?!


Well, I hope I haven't worn you out with such a long blog, but we have Thanksgiving dinner we're hosting with our faculty colleagues for all the students tomorrow. Then Friday Henry and I leave for another visit with more friends who've chosen to live in an eminently visitable place—Berlin this time. So I figured I'd better cover Italy today in one swoop or fall hopelessly behind. Ciào, dahlings!