London: day 3

Our third day was much anticipated by all of us football fans. We were going to an English Premier League game! Our final destination is shown above, West Ham's London Stadium (more about the odd structure on the right later).

But in our typical fashion, we were able to combine some fun transportation options to get all the way across town to the game. First up, we caught the first Thames "Uber" boat leaving from Putney Pier, conveniently just upstream from our good ol' Putney Bridge:

We took this relaxing mode of transport all the way to Greenwich, seeing plenty of great sights along the way...

Victoria Tower and Houses of Parliament

RAF memorial: Per ardua ad astra

The "Shard"

Tower Bridge (much more about this icon in a later post)

Plus, it was just fun to ride the comfy boat (complete with loo and refreshment stand) and not have to make bus-tube connections...

Unfortunately we didn't have time to do any sightseeing in Greenwich, but we did get to take the under-Thames tunnel from the south to the north bank...

...where we caught a couple of Ubers (cars this time) to the Stadium—or at least to the vicinity of the stadium: on game days streets for blocks around are closed to vehicles, because people take mass transit and walk the last bit! What a concept!

An English friend meeting us for the game told us about a great lunch dining option right next to the stadium: the View Tube. Good food and great pre-game atmosphere—we saw no fights between West Ham and Nottingham Forest supporters, just a good time being had by all.

And a happy surprise for our Maine contingent: they featured beer from Portland!

Heading to the stadium, we even braved the crowds in the team store, and several of the grandkids came away with West Ham swag—they might have become Hammers fans for life now!

this was taken before the shop stop

This being West Ham's last home game of the season, there was a healthy crowd and it was so fun to be in a space with so many kindred-spirit-football-fans...

For those of my readers familiar with Premier League teams, you might ask if we saw the bubbles—yes, we did! There are bubble machines all around the pitch and they put them out in strength before the game and before the second half while they sing the "Forever blowing bubbles" song. Here's the official scoop on why this distinctly un-football-related song is sung, complete with bubble accompaniment at all West Ham home games. A wonderful example of the weirdness of sports  .

bubbles before the second half

More history: they're called the "Hammers" because their club was initially a company club of the Thames Ironworks, back in the late 19th century.

And as, almost everywhere you go in the U.K., there is a WWI memorial; a supporters' club must have enlisted en masse...

Now, about that intriguing structure outside the stadium that was in my first pic. It turned out to be much too intriguing for some of our party, as they opted to ride the slide that comes down it. You can see how crazy this notion is when you look at where the red lines are pointing in the picture here. That silver twisting tube is the slide!

All three of these brave and crazy folks (two dads and a just-barely-tall-enough granddaughter!) said it was terrifying. No duh! But they're glad they did it.

The whole structure was designed, they learned, by the same genius who gave us the "Bean" in Chicago. And it is very impressive as a sculpture. It wasn't built for the Hammers, but rather for the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, when London hosted the Olympics in 2012. This park abuts the stadium, where some Olympic events took place. The slide's official name is the Arcelormittal Orbit and it's touted as the longest and tallest tunnel slide—in. the. world. What a feather in the cap of those kids crazy enough to ride it!

After this breathtaking adventure, the tube ride home was pretty tame, especially since by the time we boarded the crowds from the game had thinned out considerably. Whew! What a whirlwind day! 

London: day 2

The last time we were in London, there were some sights we missed. So some of these made our must-see list this time, and one of the top items was the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew.

Getting there involved a bus, then a rather long tube ride, but it was well worth it. Although I was a little disappointed in the few flower gardens we were able to explore (kids considered them boring) the stupendous trees more than made up for it.

They were all so tall! Amazing what ample rainfall will do for flora. One of the main attractions is a canopy walk that puts you up near the tops of some of these beauties...

But even just the surface walkways gave us fantastic views. And just being able to stroll around such astounding greenery was so very calming, even relaxing, in spite of the fact that a lot of walking was involved—it's an enormous garden! I'm sure there were acres and acres we didn't even get to.

A favorite tree was the Monkey Puzzle; it's dark-needled conifer in this picture:

But one prize specimen got special treatment; this very interesting video, called "Of the Oak," celebrates "the oak tree as a network of relationships." (You can learn more about the video here.) Both kids and adults enjoyed the video...

...as well as appreciating the specific ancient tree the art installation refers to. It's the Lucombe Oak, #1 in the list of "standout trees at Kew" on the webpage I've linked to here. It has a rather interesting history, probably being planted in the late 1700's!

We did walk through the famous Palm House that you can see in the pic at the top of the post. Here's another shot of this most photogenic structure from another angle:

But we couldn't spend much time in there—my word! It's supposed to duplicate a rainforest environment, and it certainly does. The heat and humidity almost did us in!

Another feature of the place was more welcoming: their Family Kitchen and Shop, which presented us with our preferred dining option for lunch—the food court. It provided welcome sustenance and a chance to rest tired legs for a while, although our time there wasn't without incident: ask any of our grandchildren about Grampa and the exploding tomato!

We had a time constraint in the afternoon, needing to get back to a neighborhood pub where we'd made a reservation to have dinner and watch a very exciting FA Cup final. A satisfying result, a satisfying meal, and entertainment for the kiddos at the Temperance Pub Fulham. 

Another beautiful day in greater London! Could this amazing weather possibly hold? Stay tuned!

London: Day 1

Our first full day in London was indeed a full one. Museums, ferris-wheel-to-end-all-ferris-wheels, parks, a food court—what a day!

We started off with a bus ride to the Natural History Museum. The bus rides themselves were treats for kids and adults alike, especially when you could snag the upper deck first row...

The NHM is one of the most gorgeous buildings in London, in addition to holding some amazing scientific collections. (You can see photos from my 2008 visits here.)

Here's our full group in the lobby, figuring out where to go to see the Mary Anning fossils, a top item on some of our lists...

(note the shark stroller: a constant, and very useful
companion for the next 3 weeks!)

Next up, and right next door, the Victoria and Albert Museum, possibly my favorite museum in all the world. We didn't spend as much time in it as I did in 2008 (over four visits!) but it was still a hit. Here is the Best Quality Daughter (local joke) and master potter, in her element at the museum's porcelain exhibit:

At this point, it was lunch time, and of course the museum has food options. We chose the take-away cafe out in the main court for a picnic of sorts. There's even a wading pool for the kiddos, which was a welcome diversion, as it had gotten quite warm. (We were incredibly lucky with weather for virtually our entire trip...thank you, travel gods!)

After sufficient refueling, it was on to the tube, another transportation option that is a London attraction in itself. We took our usual, the District Line, to Westminster, walked across the bridge of the same name, and found a lovely park to relax and play in as we waited for our timed-tickets to come due for the next attraction.

When we were here in 2008, we opted not to ride the London Eye; it's quite expensive, and we had no kids with us. But this time we decided it was an experience we just had to give them—and ourselves. And it turned out to be great fun, and worth the price. The views are stupendous, as the ride gives you a smooth, ever-changing vista of this fabulous city. We're so glad we did it!

starting off

view of a neighboring car (ours wasn't nearly as full;
they're very well organized in keeping groups together)

looking downstream

this impressive building used to be the County Hall

We think it's something the kids, and their parents and grandparents, will never forget!

We weren't finished with fun after our Eye car landed, either. There is a nearby park with a carousel that spins a lot faster than the Eye, and faster than any carousel I could ever ride. Then a convenient food court called "Between the Bridges"—finding dining options for such a diverse group of folks was always a challenge—made dinner a breeze. Then back to the tube, the bus, and our Airbnb, for a much-needed night's sleep. On to the next adventure!

I'mmmm back!

Wow! I didn't realize how long it's been since I posted on this blog! But it's been even longer since I've personally been in the London that I love. However, good news! Our kids wanted to visit the UK this spring and kindly let us join them...I mean, twist my arm!

We spent about 10 days in London before striking out for other parts of the UK, and I plan to tell you about the London fun we had here on this blog. Before returning to my Hometown Tourist spot for the non-London pix and adventures.

After a long overnight flight, Henry, myself, and one set of kids/grandkids hit the tube for Fulham, where the other set of kids/grandkids was waiting to meet us. And lead us to the fabulous Airbnb they found. The picture above is of a very happy tourist standing at our bedroom window. She doesn't even look too jet-lagged! On the right you can see the lovely street that we found ourselves on.

We had a nice walk through Bishop's Park from the bus stop to this fine destination. Over the next several days, we became very familiar with this area, and various ways to get from Putney Bridge to our street. Here's the bridge itself:

And on our walks through the park, we occasionally thought we'd strayed onto a ski slope! But the white you see in this photo is simply an extremely generous helping of cottonwood tree fluff:

English soccer fans (or folks with very long memories of posts on this blog) will know that our Fulham neighborhood is home to a Premier League club whose mid-table finish this season was very respectable. We didn't get to go to a Fulham game, but there will be much more about football there and elsewhere in a later post. Here's a glimpse of their home field, the oddly-named Craven Cottage, as we walked to our lodging on that first day:

I have to close this introductory post with a couple more shots of that wonderful lodging...

plenty of space for our large party of 11

another view of the back yard, and, yes,
the roses smelled as wonderful as they looked

most of the doors on this very genteel street were equally gorgeous

Reminder of the Tower

I couldn't help but remember my visit to the Tower of London in November, 2008, when I saw these red vines covering medieval walls in Regensburg, Germany.

We took an unforgettable vacation this fall that included a Viking river cruise on the Danube and Regensburg is one of the stops.

If you want to read about this great trip—we went to Italy as well as along the Danube in Germany, Austria, and Hungary—check out my current blog, Hometown Tourist and look for the label Europe2017.

Walk-through

I couldn't help but think of London when we were in Houston recently (of all places!) and during a stroll around our friends' neighborhood we came upon this lovely pathway...

What I thought of was some of the tiny passages I encountered (and occasionally got lost in) around Kensington. You can see what I mean here (about half-way down the post) and here (towards the bottom of the page).

The Houston walkway led to this handsome pocket park...

(which of course is something else London has lots of)... and we assume that's why it's there, to allow residents of the neighborhood to get to it easily, since the blocks are rather long. The passageway cuts two of these long blocks in half.

a dapper tourist along the path

Remembering the V&A

Wow! It's been a year since I posted on this blog! Believe me, I haven't gone that long without thinking of London, but this is the first time in a while that I've had a London reminiscence that called the blog to mind.

PAPERWEIGHTS!

Yes, I was recently in a museum that had a whole room full of paperweights, and I couldn't help but remember the wonderful Victoria and Albert Museum. How many rooms full of curious and wonderful objects does it have?! 

The paperweight room is in the basement of the Chicago Art Institute, which I was lucky enough to visit on a recent trip to that fine city. And while it certainly wasn't as voluminous as the lace room or the silver gallery in the V&A, it was just as much fun and just as delightful a discovery.

Not only are the paperweights on display gorgeous objects worthy of being in an art museum...

...but the displays also provided some intriguing information about how they are made...

What an unexpected, but utterly cool, collection of objects! But that's not the only quirky, V&A-like set of displays that the Art Institute offers.

Also in the basement is their collection of tiny rooms...which is just what it sounds like. A bunch of dollhouse rooms that are exquisitely decorated in a variety of period styles. So neat!

The displays are fronted with glass, so it was hard to get good pictures. But, take it from me, this little gallery is well worth the time to visit.

So much detail! And how did they make it seem like sunlight was actually entering through the tiny windows and doors?! Amazing!

I'll close with a particularly haunting image from the Institute's main collection (it's famous for its Impressionist collection)...another London memory:

I'll have more about the wonderful painting we saw here in a future post over on Hometown Tourist.